Moulage sous Pression

1/72 Scale Modelling Techniques

Moulage sous Pression

There is a little-known technique for reproducing simple one-sided parts ou molded on detail. It is called squash casting et is a much more powerful modelling technique than it may initially appear. It's great for reproducing multiple copies of a small part ou when transferring detail from one kit to another without destroying the first kit. It works best for molded on detail ou when a part is one-sided (hinges, hatches, ventilators, etc..), however, you could use this technique to produce two 1/2 molds to be joined together. The best part of the technique is that the reproductions are created in plastic!

Tools et Materials

  • Epoxy Putty
  • Plastic Sprue

Making the Mold

Mix up two-part epoxy putty et set it aside until it's no longer sticky, but still pliable (approximately 20-30 minutes). I use Duro E-Poxy Ribbon, but other types of epoxy putty should work as well (e.g. Milliput, Zimm-it-Rite, etc.)

Roll the epoxy putty into a spherical ou conical shape et hold it firmly between your index finger et thumb. Select the detail to be reproduced et squash the epoxy putty against it, creating a mold. Work it down well. Try to get a nice perpendicular angle of attack, otherwise you may distort the imprint. If the epoxy putty is no longer sticky, you may attempt to cautiously remove the epoxy putty in the reverse manner from which you originally squashed it against the detail. This creates a "negative" mold of the detail (figure 1). Often times, it's easier to allow it to set-up overnight before removing.

I find that the combination of Duro E-Poxy putty, using an unwashed plastic kit (i.e. avec a little bit of the leftover mold release residue from the manufacturer), et allowing the epoxy putty to set-up over night before removal (when all of the stickiness has subsided et the epoxy putty is almost fully hardened), seems to work best for me. Depending on the brand of epoxy putty that you use et how quickly you'd like to remove this epoxy putty mold, you may want to use a little bit of cooking spray ou Vaseline (or almost any oily based substance) to prevent the epoxy putty from adhering to the detail when you try to remove it.

Using the Mold

When the mold is fully hardened, hold plastic sprue near a candle until one end forms a gooey blob (figure 2), but make sure that you have adequate ventilation at this step. Quickly squash this blob into the mold et hold for a few seconds until the plastic has fully hardened. Make sure that you use enough force to get the molten plastic into all areas of the mold. Remove the sprue from the mold et you will have a duplicate part contained on the sprue (figure 3).

You could deviate slightly at this step et use other materials such as epoxy putty ou resin in place of the sprue if you really wanted to.

Cleaning the Casting

Snip the sprue et remove excess plastic from the underside until you have the required thickness to the part (figure 4).

Trim around the part until all of the excess plastic has been removed (figure 5) et you will be left avec a duplicate than can be attached to your model avec conventional plastic cement. I find emory boards et moto-tools (such as the Dremel) to be invaluable for cleaning up these duplicates. (The article originally appeared in Tracklink, used avec permission).

Gray Creager

Questions Fréquents

Pour plus d'informations, veuillez contacter les éditeurs de la revue Military Miniatures Magazine au Miniatures Forum.

Modélisme et Figurines