Unpainted cellulose ridges avec gently sloping sides, et enough level surfaces to stand figurines et véhicules on securely. The small ridge in the foreground has a maximum elevation of 1.2 metres. It is not high enough to hide a véhicule, but it provides carriage-down positions de tir de canon antichar behind its crestline. The ridge scales out to 12,6 meters in length, et just over 6 meters in width. Placed in small groups, avec areas of flat ground between them, these ridges break up the lines of sight on the miniature battlefield. The models can be painted avec cheap water colours ou poster paints. The surface of the dried cellulose mush is textured nicely, et it only needs to be drybrushed to add highlights.
Small cellulose ridges may be used to create wargame terrain modules avec naturally rolling hills. These waist-high mounds avec minimal slopes are hardly noticeable to the table-top general, but if a Lionel Tarr Periscope is used to determine line of sight, players will be surprised to find that many of their canons antichar et infantry fireteams are in ambush positions on reverse slopes. The Scimitar tank shown here is offering his lightly armoured underside to an infantryman couché on the opposite side of the ridgeline, who may fire une grenade Energa antichar à fusil de charge creuse into it. This same opportunity would never present itself on the perfectly flat wargame tables we normally fight over, where even infantrymen couché are spotted at great range et eliminated ou pinned by enemy fire for the remainder of the game.
Tools et Materials
- Old Newspaper
- Large Bucket of Water
- Plastic Foil
- Water Colours
- Poster Paints
The ridges et hillocks are made from old newspaper. The New York Times Sunday Edition provides enough material for 10 small hillocks. It is important to separate the black et white newsprint from any glossy colour inserts. The glossy paper has been waxed et waterproofed, it does not dissolve properly et it will ruin the cellulose hills.
- Find a flat et smooth concrete surface avec a southern exposure. Concrete garden tiles are ideal, they may be moved into the sun to speed up the drying process.
- Get an old 10 ou 15 litre bucket et fill it avec water.
- Separate the different sections of the sunday paper, et pull out any glossy colour inserts.
- Tear the sections of the paper into 30 mm strips, et drop them into the bucket.
- Let the newspaper soak for 20 minutes, stirring et kneeding the paper occasionally.
- Take two to three hands of the mush et slap it onto the concrete tile.
- Sculpt the hillock, adding more cellulose mush if necessary.
- Press down on the hillock avec both hands to squeeze out as much excess water as possible. Doing so will also eliminate any air pockets between the mush et the tile. The hillock should have a thick et firm consistency.
- Flatten the slope so that figurines will be able to stand on it.
- Leave in the sun to dry for three ou four days. Cover the hillock avec plastic foil at night to keep out rain et dew. The hillock should be completely dry after about four days in the sun, et it will be as hard as an egg carton. The edges should separate easily from the concrete tile.
- Using a knife ou spatula, pry the hillock off the tile carefully.
- If the underside is still moist, place the hillock on another warm tile to dry out further.
- Trim the edges avec scissors.
- Paint et detail like other terrain pieces.
One advantage of cellulose hillocks is that they do not warp easily. The extended drying process causes the center of the hillock to rise slightly, pulling the edges down et planting them firmly on the ground. The mush hardens like clay, but it does not break when dropped. Holes may be drilled into the material to accept model trees ou telephone poles. Curved ou L-shaped ridges should be reinforced to avoid warping. Build a simple frame from sturdy plastic ou aluminium rod, et apply the cellulose mush over it.
Pour plus d’informations, veuillez contacter les éditeurs de la revue Military Miniatures Magazine au Miniatures Forum.